I’d like to say I have a significant reason for making this jacket, but honestly it’s just because I really wanted a bomber jacket.
I chose navy velvet for the outer fabric and a satin polyester for the lining (WHICH HAS SNOOPY ON IT!!!!) I really have nothing more to say other than that I REALLY love this and I am so happy with how it turned out. This jacket was so fun to make and it was honestly a bit challenging too, especially trying welt pockets for the first time, sewing an open zip, and sewing a lining in; but it was so worth it!
- Outer fabric and lining fabric (I used 1.5m of both)
- Open ended zip
- Sewing machine
- Needle and thread
- Zipper foot
- Lots and lots of pins
For the pattern pieces I took a jacket I had already that fit well and after laying the centre on the fold, I cut out one back piece, and two front pieces. I then laid the sleeves down on the fold as well, and cut out two pieces; and replicated them on my other fabric
Next, I put all the velvet pattern pieces together, and then did the same with the lining fabrics afterward. With the fabrics right sides together I sewed the shoulders together and then down the sides of the bodice, leaving the front open for the zip later.
To attach the sleeves, I first sewed them shut along the bottom and after marking the fold along the top of the shoulder curve with a pin, I matched that up with the shoulder seam and the armpit seams together. I then pinned all the way around the sleeve and stitched it on with a 1cm seam allowance.
During the process of making this jacket, I overlocked all the edges of the lining material because I would easily fray, but did not do this for the velvet as it is a knit material.
This was my first time trying welt pockets and let me say that my fabric choices probably weren’t the best to be practicing new skills on haha
With this process, I made two pockets on the sides and another vertical one inside the lining for my phone.
To make the welt pockets, I cut out four large rectangles of the lining fabric, two for each pocket, and two small rectangles of velvet.
For the lining fabric rectangles, I cut the corners off the bottom and overlocked all around the edges.
Next, with my velvet jacket right side out, I placed one of the pocket pieces onto the jacket (right sides together) at the angle I liked and pinned it on.
I then stitched the pocket piece on with a rectangle shape and cut straight through both layers so that there was a giant hole. Although this is common sense, I would like to stress at this point that you should check that everything is just right when you do this, otherwise #RIP.
I then flipped the lining inside, leaving the rectangle for my pocket open.
To make the covering for the pockets, I cut out two rectangles of velvet, folded them in half lengthways and pinned them over the pocket opening.
Then I topstitched all around the edge. As you can see this first pocket was a bit rough but the second one turned out much better. What I didn’t mention earlier is that getting this all right took FOREVER. Pinning and unpinning and stitching and then unstitching was probably one of the most painstaking things ever. (but wait til we get to the zip!)
To finish off the pocket, I cut the raggedy bottom edge of fabric as shown above, and pinned the other pocket piece on, right sides together and simply straight stitched all the way around the edge.
And here is the finished pocket!
Ribbing! Ah another difficult task! For this part of the project, I only stitched the velvet to the ribbing and sewed the lining on afterwards.
I first did the ribbing for the collar because it was the easiest. For this, I cut a thin rectangle of black ribbing, folded it in half lengthways and pinned and stitched it onto the jacket on a curve. I didn’t stretch anything but simply sewed it straight on.
For the sleeves, I cut two short rectangles of ribbing that sat nicely around my wrist, but also fit around my upper arm if I were to pull my sleeve up. I then folded them in half width ways and overlocked the short sides together. I then flipped one of the sides over (wrong sides together) so that I had my wrist band.
On both my wristband and the end of the sleeve I marked the seam point with a pin, then the opposite halfway point, the quarter points, etc., matched them all up and pinned them together after pulling the ribbing over the outside of the sleeve. Then I stretched the ribbing flat while I was sewing so that when stretched and released, the two fabrics would work together.
For the ribbing along the bottom of the jacket, I used the exact same process as for the sleeve, except leaving about 1-1.5cm of the ribbing and velvet unsewn. This way, I could insert my zip later.
To insert the lining, I lay the jacket right side up and folded the ribbing down. I then pinned the lining on right sides together so that the ribbing was sandwiched in between. I did this for the collar and the waist band using their respective techniques.
For the sleeves, it gets a bit interesting!
I flipped the whole jacket right sides out as if it was finished. Then I pulled the sleeves out where the zip would be. I then turned the ribbing inside the velvet, and pinned and sewed the sleeves on using the same sleeve process.
The jacket is nearly finished!
For the zip, I pinned all the raw seams in 1cm, inserted (one half of) the zip in between and tacked the three layers together using a long running stitch. Then I sewed it under the machine, removed the tacking and voila! We are finished!!
How do you think it turned out? I’m so happy with the final product!
There are some smaller details which I am not 100% happy about but now I know what I need to work on and fix next time!